Wednesday 11 November 2015

Myanmar to Korea: Traditional Dress


Growing up in the UK as an Asian minority, I often neglected my heritage more than I should have. After all, when it comes to filling in forms - something one has been constantly doing in the past month, (UCAS!) - my ethnicity is summarized and ticked into one tiny box: 'Other Asian'.

Aside from political correctness, peers and adults alike in school never really had a clue where the hell I'm from. And their guesses, some more educated than others, were always close but so far. Either ways, it wasn't entirely their fault that my country, Myanmar formerly Burma, is such a "hidden gem", or rather more infamously known in its recent past as a pariah state.

 Honestly, having found an interest in Korean culture was actually one of my earliest 6 year old memories I was openly able to share with not only my mum, but later my group of best friends in high school. It was by chance I sat down one afternoon with my mum to watch one of the biggest K-Dramas to hit Korea that year: 'Full House', starring bright faced Song Hye Kyo and Rain . The Hallyu wave had hit Myanmar three years prior with the broadcasting of 'Autumn in my Heart'; the film was so widely acclaimed across the nation that fans began to refer to the drama simply by the characters' names: Eun-Seo 은서 and Jun-Seo 준서. Since then my mother has long veered off the path of the K-drama addict, only briefly revisiting the scene in 2012 to watch 'To the Beautiful You' with me, arguing that Sulli was the complete doppelganger of my friend Isabel >_< ; in fact she finished the drama before I ever had the chance to as well! Hence the fateful entrance of this "hidden gem" into my life, a pastime that has become more than just that, (as in upgrading to a degree level), has altered my attitude towards my own heritage and others lack of regard for it.

  
Two men wearing
longyi while paying
homage at a pagoda. 
As a child, the closest I would come to my ethnic identity, aside from speaking the language as my mother tongue (with imperfect pronunciation and a colourful but limited vocabulary range) and eating the food every day (which I mostly take for granted), is when I dressed in the clothing of my home country. Given that these weren't everyday dress either, they were pretty damn special! Neither of my parents wore traditional clothing at home either - with the exception of my father sometimes wearing the casual longyi - so it was an occasion to be donning the costumes. But upon researching further into the history of Burmese clothing, which is really just a blanket title for the multiple variations of indigenous ethnic dress from the country, specifically women's clothing has evolved greatly just within the 20th century itself. In a nutshell, rationing during WWII led to shorter quarter sleeves from traditionally long sleeves to eventually end up with even no sleeves! With the emergence of cinema and film stars, fabrics for blouses aain kyae အင်္ကျီ turned sheer and higher waisted than the prim overcoats and blouses of the 19th century.

Nonetheless, the dresses my sister and I had gotten measured and sewn custom made from Myanmar were actually more modernized than we'd imagined. Unlike most countries nowadays, even urban city dwellers, like the Yangonites of our hometown, still retain the customary fashions of their ancestors by mainly sporting the typical fabrics, textures and cuts of old Burma. Of course this cannot be said of recent times: colours and patterns particularly are brighter and bolder in today's fashion trends. However, the long skirts (htamein/longyi) women wear, maxi skirts as we would identify it in western styles, are still the same in length and flow. Much less gown-like than maxi skirts but with freer movement than the sarong-like wrap around skirts I grew up wearing with belts, in order to avoid an "accident", i.e. the skirt dropping to my ankles.





Drawing of Myanma aawitcaar with 
   her wearing a gold necklace shwe swaer
   kwoe and a side fastening blouse called 
   yin phone     

   Drawing of Myanma aawitcaar with 
   her wearing a gold necklace shwe swaer
   kwoe and a side fastening blouse called 
   yin phone     




















 
 





When comparing the Burmese way of dress to the Korean traditional dress, hanbok, both costumes configure completely different silhouettes, that as far as I know haven't been shared in its exact likeness with other neighbouring countries' national dress. As mentioned before, due to the variety of traditional Burmese dress (the outfits depicted in this article mainly of Bamar influence), the overlapping of designs do occur, and can give the impression of an overarching shared sense of identity, (that can be found at the National Races Village Park). But ultimately, even the spoken tongue in the different states and regions are distinct and are not traceable back to one originating mother language.

In this aspect, I truly admire the unity in which traditional Korean clothes tie regions together. Whether it's Hanbok 한복 in the South or Joseon-ot 조선옷 in the North, the texture and forms of traditional Korean dress has maintained its antiquity even through modern times when one typically reserves their Hanbok for special occasions. Through means of innovation, Korea's general demographic may have opted for the convenient wardrobe of the West, but it doesn't mean Hanbok will only be seen once a year either! The preservation of such an important factor of one's culture - with various pieces of Hanbok displaying essences of shamanistic motifs or royal emblems as well as its nomadic roots - is highly regarded today as a century ago when all wore the Hanbok in their everyday lives. This is highlighted by the fact that in 1996, the South Korean Ministry for Culture, Sports and Tourism declared every first Saturday of the month as Hanbok Day. In addition to that, the comeback of Hanbok more recently, reworked and modernised, has thrown Korean fashion into the international realm as well. Many famous Korean fashion designers have remodelled the iconic proportions of Hanbok, noticeably its high waisted skirt and short waisted bolero style blouse top. But not in a way the Hanbok becomes unrecognisable, but more appealing to the youth while still giving prominence to its heritage. One of these many fashion designers I have come to admire is Hwang Yi-Seul, AKA Dew Hwang. Here are some of her designs:




This first piece shows off the waist with a beautiful floral print skirt, adding a slender bow as an embellishment right above the hip. The sleeves of the blouse cuts before the elbow; the clean lines elegantly reminisces of the early Hanbok form while remaining 21st century chic. The colours are light and are very spring-like.
           

The next piece couldn't be anymore casual and easy for a Tuesday morning on campus. *imagining the situation with me in it xD * The use of denim revamps the whole Hanbok movement: as well as the easy-going folded back cuff look the model sports with this little number on. The A-line skirt, although on the short end, and dongjeong 동정 collar are what conserves the Hanbok features.













The third piece is by far my favourite: a classic winter look with its plum colour A-line skirt, still high waisted but lower than the first piece. Matched with the black chunky heeled boots and the cream coloured fur scarf against the off white long sleeved jeogori 저고리,  this piece presents a crisp fresh look, distinctly of Korean influence, without becoming too periodical an outfit.












The final number is modelled by no other than the designer herself, Dew Hwang 황이슬. She is dressed in a simple forest green pleat skirt, a relaxed silhouette of its uniquely preceding fuller and more elaborate Hanbok skirt, chima 치마. A more prominent Korean touch would be the 4 piece norigae 노리개 ornament tied to the left side of the chima's waist. Hwang keeps the outfit on the more candid side of the palette, by keeping the jeogori beige coloured: like how most working class women in Korean history would have their hanbok every day.







Drawing of the traditional Korean Hanbok: a
hair ornament called binyeo 비녀, stiff V neck collar
dongjeong 동정, bolero style inner jacket jeogori 저고리
 
and an adorned ribbon worn long on the chest
goreum 고름.

Drawing of the lower half of the Hanbok: the A-line
skirt chima 치마, often disproportionate to its short waisted jeogori by 4 times the length in some instances; sokchima 속치마 is the multi layered underskirt that gives the hanbok its fuller gown like look; and hye 혜 is the fashionable pointed end shoes Korean women would wear.





And so to round this post off, the pictures below show me trying on both my native dress htamein, and the traditional Korean hanbok.
Though I do no justice to either outfit, one can see the sokchima's ribbons shamelessly peeping from under the jeogori >_< Plus the goreum rides up way to high on the jeogori. If anything, my photo shows how NOT to wear a hanbok.
As for the Bamar dress: it took me ages to find one that fit as well as that one did, and in the end, my leggings makes an unwanted feature in this awkward pose I'm throwing. The patterns in this particular number are seemingly of Thai influences as well. Although the neighbours often share more than textiles in cultural exchange.



Me dressed in a hanbok 한복 @ the Korean
Cultural Centre UK. yellow jeogori, pink
chima and a maroon goreum
Me in one of the many different styles of
traditional Burmese dress. [photo taken
@ Broadway Studios lol the pose is eek] 





























-Louise c:



This song makes me reminisce of a time I've never lived through. Weird what music does, huh? Watch "Reply 1988" in the meantime! [I swear Hyeri is my aunt in back in the 80s!]






Friday 18 September 2015

K-Pop Around the World

PSY dancing to the legendary horse choreography of 1 billion hit track, 
Gangnam style.


How does a whimsical subculture like K-Pop draw in so many fans around the world? 

As far as the general population of the Western Hemisphere knows, K-Pop was a headliner a couple of years back, spectacularly modeled by a "slick" overweight Korean man called PSY.

But before the summer of 2012 graced us with Park Jae-Sang, better known as rapper PSY's satirical Gangnam Style, the world of K-Pop had never reached a level of popularity so permeating! This is debatable - after all, in a world where most of our media consumption can be pinpointed to the manufacturing of Hollywood and the West, niche subcultures like K-Pop are reserved for the otakus of the Internet. Nerdy teens glued to their modern gadgets and screens. An image that is typically depicted of anime and video game fanatics. For outsiders of the phenomena, K-Pop is merely another geek culture. Even within the homeland, South Korea, K-Pop idols are marketed towards the average secondary and high school students - many of these being the young female population.  
So the big question from all of us is whether K-Pop can outdo its world record?

In regards to its staying power after Gangnam Style, despite Girls Generation or other big name groups not being blasted out on UK radios just yet, more and more nods to Korean culture are declared. Like the recent upsurge of kimchi as a food trend for the year 2015. Where people would often quote food to bringing people of different nations together, I would argue in my case, K-Pop and the love of music has strengthened a community that was overlooked before. As well as introducing interested newcomers into the family. Not only are the wider masses recognizing the new musical export, fan or not, K-Pop has permeated into foreign markets. Take for example, 2NE1's I Am The Best track featuring on Microsoft's Surface Pro 3 ad. And if your senses aren't engaged enough, several popular American TV shows have already featured world renown K-Pop acts or paid homage to their songs. Some including America's Next Top Model, The Bachelor, Glee, Selfie and not to mention all the talk shows and news broadcasts on K-Pop.

Although the popularity of K-Pop has always been irrefutable on the other side of the world, i.e. Asia, the methods in which K-pop, or rather Hallyu, is branching out in Europe and America, are more strategic than their growing success in the Eastern world. The upbeat tunes and flashy dances are undeniably K-Pop's magnetic force, aside from the abundance of beautiful people. But to really stand firm in these global markets, particularly as a musical act/artist rather than just another foreign commodity, does K-Pop need to assimilate? An old case to refer back to, would be the venture of Wonder Girls back in 2012. Needless to say, The Wonder Girls TV movie did little to make a ripple in its target audiences' scene. So it's clear that conventional methods, such as touring with then popular Jonas Brothers, and partnerships with Nick Cannon in particular (hint hint Nickelodeon's Make It Pop), are not substantial ways of assembling new fans.

Instead, the universal (exempt of China, Iran, Pakistan and North Korea) platform of YouTube has been a resounding tactic in terms of acquainting people with the wonderful world of K-Pop and Kdrama and just Hallyu in general. Not only has it spurred an interest in newcomers, YouTube themselves had awarded Girls Generation Video of the Year award. Thus as far as we can tell, K-Pop with its magnificent force of fans throughout the world - selling out concert tickets in a hot flash - will have no trouble marching into the hearts of international fans. It's whether a decline in international interest - groups outside fan communities, i.e. TV, news, radio and other mediums - will eventually forgo the musical genre as just another viral hit.

- Louise c:

P.S. In the meanwhile, go check out the latest song I've been bopping along to this week!



Or two songs... >_<